Yukshin Gardan Sar 7530m Expedition
The first ascent of Yukshin Gardan Sar (7,530m / 24,705ft) on June 26, 1984, by the Austrian-Pakistani joint expedition is a remarkable story of determination, teamwork, and competition with a Japanese team accompanied by Major Sher Khan, one of Pakistan's finest mountaineers.
Expedition Summary:
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Leader: Rudolf Wurzer (Austria)
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Pakistani Team Members: Mohamed Yaseen Siddiqi, Ahmed Bareed, Ibrahim Taufail
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Austrian Climbers: Willi Bauer, Dr. Walter Bergmayr, Willi Brandecker, Reinhard Streif, Rudolf Wurzer
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Base Camp: Established on May 28, 1984, on the Yazghil Glacier (4,000m)
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Japanese Expedition Arrival: May 30, adding competitive pressure
Ascent Route & Camps:
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Camp I (4,400m) – May 29
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Camp II (5,150m) – June 1 (via a side ridge and couloir descent)
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Camp III (5,050m) – Lower than Camp II due to dangerous glacier conditions
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Camp IV (6,150m) – June 7 (after ascending a 40° ice face and an 8km snow basin)
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Camp V (6,700m) – June 9 (just below the summit face)
Summit Push:
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First attempt (June 10) – Failed due to bad weather
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Second attempt (June 18) – Aborted again due to weather; food shortages forced a retreat
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Final Push (June 24-26):
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Bauer, Streif, Brandecker, and Bergmayr moved up to Camp V (6,700m) on June 25.
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On June 26, they climbed steep snow, an ice-coated rock buttress, and a 60° ice couloir, then a 45° slope to the summit ridge.
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Reached the summit at 4:30 PM after a highly technical and risky climb.
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Survived a cold bivouac during the descent.
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Significance:
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The Austrian-Pakistani team succeeded before the Japanese expedition, showcasing their resilience and skill.
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The route involved complex glacier travel, steep ice, and exposed rock sections, making it a challenging first ascent.
Yukshin Gardan Sar remains a formidable peak in the Karakoram Range, and this expedition stands as a testament to high-altitude mountaineering under competitive pressure.