Mustagh Tower-7284m Mustagh tower-7284m seen from Baltoro Glacier as a gigantic stone axe apparently sheer sided and unclimbable. It was first climbed from the west by the British in 1956, which made it to the top only five days ahead of the French, who were approaching from the east. From the South West route it […]
Mustagh tower-7284m seen from Baltoro Glacier as a gigantic stone axe apparently sheer sided and unclimbable. It was first climbed from the west by the British in 1956, which made it to the top only five days ahead of the French, who were approaching from the east.
From the South West route it has four high altitude camps. Camp 1 is after the ice fall at 16,000ft, following the Upper Chagoran Glacier, above the White tiger is the Camp 2 at 18000ft, turning toward west ridge after crossing the snow slope where fixed rope is recommend you reach the Camp 3 at 20,400ft near the Col (first rock wall), continue climbing the south west ridge after crossing the Brown Patey camp you are near Camp 4 at 22000ft. The second rock fall is below to the Sandy hangs 10. Continue further up is the west summit at 23,860ft. The other summit called the east summit.
From Skardu, you will jeep to Askoli, the last village on the trek. A couple long days bring you to Paiju and the tongue of the Baltoro. Here you will take a rest day as the porters prepare their food for the glacier. Your next stop is Urdukas, a grassy knoll located immediately opposite the Trango Towers and Uli Biaho. Two regular days and a final short day bring you to Base Camp.
Muztagh Tower can be completed in as little as six weeks (Pindi to Pindi) or as long as nine weeks. The return trip can be arranged over the 5700 meter Gondogoro La and the beautifully green Hushe Valley from which you return to Skardu or via the same route.
The nearby Mustagh Tower (north-east ridge), having a height of 7180m was climbed in 1984 by members of an Anglo-American Karakoram expedition.
Mustagh Tower Expedition
40 DAYS ISLAMABAD TO BACK ISLAMABAD
Note :- Although we try to adhere to the schedule listed below, this itinerary is subject to change due to numerous reasons beyond our control such as bad weather, cancelled or delayed flights, road washouts, vehicle breakdowns, accidents, sickness, govt. restrictions, & all other unforeseen exigencies.
Day 1 ARRIVAL RAWALPINDI / ISLAMABAD
Upon arrival met and transfer to your hotel/Guest House in Islamabad. After a short rest drive to Alpine Club of Pakistan to complete the necessary formalities.
Day 2 RAWALPINDI/SKARDU
The best option with the mountaineering expedition is drive by road, if clients want to fly to Skardu, we will organize a flight to Skardu (only one way flight is included in our package) if unable to fly, same day we will drive to Skardu 2300m, spending a night in Chilas. Please be remembering domestic flight weight limit is 20 kg per person.
Day 3 SKARDU
Emergency day in case, flight does not operate on day 03 this day will be use to transfer the members by road from Chilas to Skardu. Total drive time from Islamabad to Skardu is 22-24 hours.
Day 4 SKARDU
Day at leisure. while staff will make final arrangement for the expedition.
Day 5 SKARDU -TO- ASKOLE
Embark jeeps for a full day ride on a winding jeep trail to Askole 3050m –
Day 6 ASKOLE -TO- KOROPHONE
Today we leave the last inhabited village. For the remaining portion of our journey we rely on our porters who carry our food and equipment’s and sustain our expedition.
Day 7 KOROPHONE -TO- JHULA
Trek to the Dumurdo river cross at Jhula,
Day 8 JHULA -TO- PAIJU
Resume trek along the Braldu River to a green Oasis under the shadows of Paiju Peak 6611 M.
Day 9 PAIJU – Rest Day
Rest & acclimatization day at Piaju. Overnight in tents. All meals served by camp staff.
Day 10 PAIJU -TO- URDUKAS
Begin trek after an early breakfast. Traverse the junction of Paiju – Baltoro Glaciers through crevasses & lunch below Liligo, the traditional camp under the muddy cliffs with fine views of rock spires. Cross the Khuburse torrent early morning and ramble over two glacier moraines to reach the grassy slopes of Urdukas
Day 11 URDUKAS -TO- LHUNGKA
A long walk on the icy Baltoro Glacier to Lhungka.
Day 12 LHUNGKA TO MUSTAGH TOWER BASE CAMP
Final day of trek to Mustagh Tower base camp. A 3-4 hrs trek will bring you to the base camp of Mustagh Tower.
Day 13 CLIMBING
Day 32 CLIMBING
20 days Non guided climb with the help of High Altitude Pakistani Sherpa will start from today. During the climbing period our staff will be at base camp to help and assist you.
Day 33 TREKKING BACK TO URDOKAS
After breakfast continue your trek down to Urdokas.
Day 34 URDOKAS TO PIAJU
After a couple of minutes of easy walk we will comes onto the glacier. You pick your way across moving boulders and ice, finally crossing the glacier up to the camping site to reach Piaju,
Day 35 PIAJU -TO- ASKOLE
After breakfast continue your walk along the Braldu river on a easy path. Upon arrival camp near the fields in Askole village.
Day 36 ASKOLE -TO- SKARDU
AM : Embark jeeps for a full day ride on a winding jeep trail to Skardu. Upon arrival transfer to your chosen hotel. All meals included.
Day 37 SKARDU – ISLAMABAD
Early in the morning fly to Islamabad, if unable to fly same day drive to Gilgit. Overnight hotel.
Day 38 ISLAMABAD
Upon arrival transfer to your hotel in Rawalpindi. Evening sightseeing.
If unable to fly on day 62. this day will be use to transfer from Gilgit to Islamabad by road.
Day 39 ISLAMABAD
De-briefing at Alpine club of Pakistan. Evening free
Day 40 FLY BACK HOME
Transfer to airport for your onward flight to abroad.
End of our services