Broad Peak Expedition 47 days, Ex-Islamabad, Non-guided climb BROAD PEAK 8047 meters is one of four 8000 meter peaks located in a tight cluster in the upper reaches of the Baltoro Glacier, the principal access to that part of the Karakoram. It has the distinction of being in the same valley as the famous K2. Though its […]
BROAD PEAK 8047 meters is one of four 8000 meter peaks located in a tight cluster in the upper reaches of the Baltoro Glacier, the principal access to that part of the Karakoram. It has the distinction of being in the same valley as the famous K2. Though its majesty may suffer in comparison to its big sister, Broad Peak is spectacular in its own right. This is mainly due to its unusual triple summit (which accounts for it’s name).
Base camp for Broad Peak is a short 2 hours walk from Concordia, nature’s version of a highway interchange where several glaciers merge into the Baltoro. Broad’s base camp is only a couple hours from K2 Base Camp, which might be visited in anticipation of future trips.
Expeditions to the Karakoram invariably start from Islamabad (capital of Pakistan) and its twin city of Rawalpindi (Pindi to its friends). Once the formalities with the government have been completed, you will continue on to Skardu, located in the district of Baltistan. This trip is made by one of two methods. Often preferred is the air route (when the weather permits), not only because the flight is only an hour, but also because you fly past Nanga Parbat on the way. Alternately, you may take a bus along the Indus River, first following the Karakoram Highway, then branching through the spectacular Indus River gorge as you approach Skardu. The latter route is long, but recommended at least once during multiple visits to the region.
From Skardu, you will jeep to Askoli, the last village on the trek. A couple long days bring you to Paiju and the tongue of the Baltoro. Here you will take a rest day as the porters prepare their food for the glacier. Your next stop is Urdukas, a grassy knoll located immediately opposite the Trango Towers and Uli Biaho. Your porters will likely be willing to push the next day to Concordia, which has spectacular views not only of K2 & Broad, but also Gasherbrum IV. They will do this because they will have time the next day to reach BC and return.
Broad Peak has the reputation of being one of the easier 8000 meter peaks. Though the route is not technically challenging, it is not a mountain to be taken lightly since the route crosses prominent avalanche terrain. Base Camp is at 5000 meters. Sub-camps are typically placed at around 5800, 6250 & 6900 meters. Some expeditions attempt the summit from C3 — others place an additional camp at 7400 meters. From the summit, you will see the entire Karakoram, including the Gasherbrums (I-VII), Masherbrum, Mustagh Tower and Chogolisa.
Depending on the weather, Broad Peak can be completed in as little as six weeks (Pindi-Pindi) or as long as nine weeks. The return trip is often over the 6000 meter Gondogoro La and the beautifully green Hushe Valley from which you return to Skardu.
Note :- Although we try to adhere to the schedule listed below, this itinerary is subject to change due to numerous reasons beyond our control such as bad weather, cancelled or delayed flights, road washouts, vehicle breakdowns, accidents, sickness, govt. restrictions, & all other unforeseen exigencies.
Upon arrival met and transfer to your hotel in Rawalpindi. After a short rest drive to Islamabad, Ministry of Tourism to complete the necessary formalities and obtain climbing permit.
Fly to Skardu, If unable to fly, same day we will drive to Skardu 2300m, spending a night in Chilas.
Emergency day in case, flight does not operate on day 03 this day will be use to transfer the members by road from Chilas to Skardu. Total drive time from Islamabad to Skardu is 22-24 hours.
Day at leisure. while staff will make final arrangement for the expedition.
Embark jeeps for a full day ride on a winding jeep trail to Askole 3050m – The last inhabitance on our way to the Great Glaciers. Highest in the region, the stone & timber abodes contain dark & narrow stairwells riven by gloomy, unlit alleys cluster within the embrace of the fertile terraces. Overnight in tents. All meals served by camp staff. Distance 96 Km, Drive 07-08 Hrs. Altitude 3050 M.
Note :-The road to Askole comes undergoing rapid erosion and gets closed quite oftenly. If unable to jeep, the group will disembark & walk to Askole on the same day or camp for overnight (subject to distance).
Today we leave the last inhabited village. For the remaining portion of our journey we rely on our porters who carry our food and equipment’s and sustain our expedition. After scrambling over a ridge we come across what legend says an old polo field. Passing through a rock gap we cross the Biafo glacier and camp beside its snout at korophone. The Biafo Glacier is a huge river of ice 63 Km long which descends from the central peaks of the Karakoram & flows East into the Braldu Valley at a point about 10 Kms east of Askole. Overnight in tents All meals served by camp staff. Walk : 03 – 04 hrs, Grade : Easy, Altitude : 3100 M,
Trek to the Dumurdo river cross at Jhula, (Jhula means wire rope bridge sported by a wooden basket), now a wooden bridge is made cross it & camp beside a torrent facing the Bakhordas. Walk : 03-04 hrs, Grade : Strenuous, Altitude : 3150 M
Resume trek along the Braldu River to a green Oasis under the shadows of Paiju Peak 6611 M. Paiju – is a Balti word which means “SALT”. Since there are some rock salt deposits at the base of this peak, the locals believe that the snow on the summit of Paiju Peak is not snow but a huge deposit of salt which drips down to the base. From this camp we have the first views of the impressive Baltoro Glacier. Overnight in tents. Walk : 05-06 hrs, Grade : Moderate, Altitude : 3480 M.
Rest & acclimatization day at Piaju. Overnight in tents. All meals served by camp staff.
Begin trek after an early breakfast. Traverse the junction of Paiju – Baltoro Glaciers through crevasses & lunch below Liligo, the traditional camp under the muddy cliffs with fine views of rock spires. Cross the Khuburse torrent early morning and ramble over two glacier moraines to reach the grassy slopes of Urdukas offering splendid views of the Trango, Uli Biaho & Bial Groups. Overnight in tents. All meals served by camp staff. Walk : 06-07 hrs, Grade : Moderate, Altitude : 4130 M
A long walk on the icy Baltoro Glacier. Traverse the Yermanandu Glacier which flows down from Masherbrum & joins the Baltoro. Magnificent views of Muztagh, Mitre & Gasherbrum IV. Overnight in tents. All meals served by camp staff. Walk : 06-07 hrs, Grade : Strenuous, Altitude : 4500 M.
After an early breakfast, resume a long walk on the Baltoro Glacier to a point called Concordia – a huge junction of Baltoro, Abruzzi & Godwin Austin Glaciers at 4000 meters . Within a short radius of 15 Kilometers, stand 41 peaks over 6500 meters. including 04 peaks above 8000 M. The 360 view offers a panorama of peaks nowhere to be found on this Earth. Overnight in tents. All meals served by camp staff. Walk : 05 – 06 hrs, Grade : strenuous, Altitude : 4720 M.
Final day of trek to Broad Peak base. A 2 hrs trek will bring you to the base of Broad Peak, here you will say good bye to your porters for about 5 weeks. Overnight in tents. All meals served by camp staff. Walk : 04-06 hrs, Grade : strenuous, Altitude : 4650 M.
23 days non guided climb will start from today. During the climbing period our staff will be at base camp to help and assist you.
After an early breakfast leave the K2 base camp and we will cross Concordia and several side glacier to reach our right path. After 4-5 hours we will reach Vigne glacier, it is also possible to walk on the Vigne glacier which is fairly easy then walking on the stony bath on the right side of the glacier but it depend on the snow condition. Overnight in tents.
A very early start as early as 2 or 3 O’clock does in the morning to cross the Gondogoro la to reach Khuspang. The basic theme behind the early walk to reach the top of the Gondogoro Pass 5700 meters is that in the morning snow will be soft and you will not get tired quickly as the sun is not strong, but as sun get strong snow get soft, snow going to be melt and bring water and stones, also the chance of ice falls or avalanches. Overnight in tents. All meals served by camp staff. Walk : 10 – 11 hrs, Grade : Strenuous, Altitude : 5700 M
After a couple of minutes of easy walk we will comes onto the glacier. You pick your way across moving boulders and ice, finally crossing the glacier up to the camping site to reach Dalsangpa, meaning ‘field of flowers’, lives up to its name. It is a beautiful campsite at about 4,150 meters, set between two lakes, with Masherbrum Mountain and the white glacier cascading down from Masherbrum Pass reflected in the still water. Resume trek along the path, Keep yourself on the left side of the lateral moraine, crossing several side streams. The next hour is an unpleasant scramble along the stony, sliding glacier edge, with huge boulders poised above, ready to fall.
Continue your trek along the path goes down hill to the summer settlement called Shaicho, a large shepherds settlement with its won mosque, now here you can find a hotel and mountaineering equipment shop. This is the traditional camp among the forest of juniper, cedar and willow trees with giant bushes of wild roses and a good water supply. Walk : 07-08 hrs, Grade : Moderate, Altitude
After breakfast continue your walk along the Hushey river on a easy path. Upon arrival camp near the fields in Hushey village. An easy day will bring you to Hushey village. Evening free. Overnight in tents.
AM : Embark jeeps for a full day ride on a winding jeep trail to Skardu. Upon arrival transfer to your chosen hotel. All meals included.
Early in the morning fly to Islamabad, if unable to fly same day drive to Gilgit. Overnight hotel.
Upon arrival transfer to your hotel in Rawalpindi. Evening sightseeing.
If unable to fly on day 62. this day will be use to transfer from Gilgit to Islamabad by road.
De-briefing at Ministry of Tourism Islamabad. Evening free
Transfer to airport for your onward flight to abroad.
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