Beatrice Peak -c5,800m-, ” Diaper couloir ” :

Beatrice is a c5,800m peak located on the north side of the Charakusa Valley in the Hushe region. The summit ridge is a rather narrow complex affair and has been reached once before by a young British team in 1988. Andy Bunnage and Bob Marks made the first ascent of the peak via the Diaper Couloir, a 1,000m D+ snow and ice gully on the south flank.

 

Beatrice Peak -c5,800m-, South face :

The first routes on this face were put up in 1997 when British climbers Grant Farquar, Steve Meyers and Mike ‘Twid Turner, and simultaneously Glenda Huxter, Kath Pyke and Louise Thomas, climbed two roughly parallel lines in capsule style; The Excellent Adventure (British E3 6a and A3+) and Hateja (also British E3 6a and A3+). The three Americans chose a line through the multiple overlaps to the right of the previous routes and in rather inclement weather decided to fix ropes on the first 360m before committing themselves to the wall. Once established on the route they then had to face the worst storm of the expedition, which put down approximately one metre of snow over several days. The trio fixed another 240m through discontinuous cracks on the headwall before deciding to go for the top. However, when they discovered the summit to be guarded by a long knife-edge ridge composed of poor snow and dangerously loose blocks, Chin, Howe and Workman, in common with the two British parties before them, decided that the top of the wall was reward enough. They descended from this high point, christening their route Wanderlust and offering a grade of VI, 5.10+, A3.

Beatrice Peak -c5,800m-, South Est face, ” The Excellent Adventure” & “Hajeta” routes :

The South East route on this face were put up in 1997 when British climbers Grant Farquar, Steve Meyers and Mike ‘Twid Turner, and simultaneously Glenda Huxter, Kath Pyke and Louise Thomas, climbed two roughly parallel lines in capsule style; ” The Excellent Adventure ” (British E3 6a and A3+) and ” Hateja ” (also British E3 6a and A3+). This is 2 long days climb on a difficult ridge, summit who nobody climb.