Beatrice Peak Expedition Pakistan
Beatrice Peak, a majestic 5800m mountain in the Hushe region of Pakistan, beckons adventurers to conquer its challenges and savor its awe-inspiring beauty. This expedition has a rich history of exploration and presents a unique mountaineering opportunity.
Diaper Couloir Ascent:
Beatrice Peak's summit is on the north side of the Charakusa Valley. In 1988, a British team, including Andy Bunnage and Bob Marks, made the first ascent via the Diaper Couloir, a challenging 1,000m D+ snow and ice gully on the mountain's south flank. This pioneering achievement set the stage for future endeavors.
South Face Routes:
In 1997, the south face of Beatrice Peak witnessed remarkable feats by British climbers Grant Farquar, Steve Meyers, Mike 'Twid Turner, Glenda Huxter, Kath Pyke, and Louise Thomas. They tackled this challenging terrain in capsule style, pioneering two roughly parallel routes:
- The Excellent Adventure: A test of skill and endurance, this British E3 6a and A3+ rated route showcases the climbers' determination to conquer the steep and technical aspects of Beatrice Peak's south face.
- Hateja: Another formidable British E3 6a and A3+ rated route that highlights the audacity of the climbers who embraced the mountain's challenges. It's a testament to their spirit of adventure and exploration.
Wanderlust: A New Route on Beatrice Peak:
During their expedition, a trio of American climbers chose a line through multiple overlaps to the right of the previous British routes. They faced inclement weather and had to fix ropes on the first 360m. Their journey culminated in their christening of the route as "Wanderlust." The rating for this route is VI, 5.10+, A3.
Southeast Face: Unconquered Territory:
The South East face of Beatrice Peak remains a formidable challenge, with two captivating routes, "The Excellent Adventure" and "Hateja," established by British climbers. These routes rated British E3 6a and A3+, are known for their difficulty and the ultimate summit challenge that remains unclimbed.
Beatrice Peak in the Charakusa Valley offers an opportunity for adventurers to test their mettle against nature's elements and experience the thrill of mountaineering in one of Pakistan's most stunning regions.